Some watches are recognisable before their names become legible. The Polerouter’s outer dial ring, twisted lugs and crosshair layout gave it just such an identity. Universal Genève now returns to that design with a contemporary collection.
Its starting point is Gérald Genta’s 1954 creation, interpreted through new mechanics and finishes ranging from understated steel to ornamental stone and diamonds.
A design linked to aviation
The original Polerouter was associated with Scandinavian Airlines and polar routes. Universal Genève entrusted the project to a young Genta, well before his name became internationally celebrated. The balance of practicality and elegance remains central to its appeal.
The new collection retains the crosshair composition and outer ring, using texture and contrasting finishes to create depth. Twisted lugs remain part of the case’s character.
The UG-110 movement
Every announced model uses the manufacture UG-110, which the brand presents under the Microtor name. The movement is 3.8 mm thick, runs at 4 Hz and provides approximately 72 hours of power reserve. Domed sapphire crystals, transparent backs and a stated 100-metre water resistance accompany the collection; leather straps require separate care around water.
Two sizes, several personalities
The five Prêt-à-Porter variants include 39 mm date models in steel with black or blue dials, and rose gold with a brown dial. The 37 mm options pair steel with black or rose gold with white mother-of-pearl and a diamond-set bezel.
A brick-link bracelet recalls historic designs. Universal Genève describes interchangeable fittings and micro-adjustment, alongside alligator straps.
Stone and colour
The 39 mm Hardstone models introduce lapis lazuli, tiger’s eye and bull’s eye. The 37 mm Camaïeu editions use variations of colour across the dial’s four quarters, with aqua mint, toffee and berry combinations.
How these proportions and finishes feel on the wrist remains to be assessed in person. The supplied press release gives neither prices nor dates for retail availability.
Source: Universal Genève · Press information, November 2026. Adapted from press information. Photograph: Universal Genève.
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