Vacheron Revives Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar in 36.5mm

A Return to Compact Elegance

Vacheron Constantin is closing its 270th anniversary with a surprising statement piece: a modern, ultra-thin perpetual calendar in a classic 36.5mm format. The new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, reference 4300T, brings back the proportions many vintage enthusiasts admire, without leaning on nostalgia alone. It arrives as the brand continues to expand beyond its popular Overseas line, proving Vacheron’s range is broader than one sport-luxury flagship.

Crucially, the watch does not chase size trends. Instead, it embraces balance and restraint. The case is just 8.43mm thick, which keeps the profile elegant while maintaining presence on the wrist. Moreover, the choice of white or pink gold sets a refined tone that suits the design’s clarity. For collectors who value coherence, the message is clear: compact can still be contemporary.

Design Details That Add Depth

The Traditionnelle case uses a flat bezel and slightly straighter lugs that drop gently at the ends, so it wears smaller and more comfortably than its measurements suggest. Additionally, a subtle incut line along the mid-case draws the eye, giving the profile shape and reducing visual thickness. The overall impression is sharp yet warm.

The off-white opaline dial adds depth through fine textures and well-judged detailing. The subdials have a delicate snailing finish, while long, triple-faceted hour markers pull everything into balance. Furthermore, the moonphase is framed to anchor the composition. The four-year indicator at 12 o’clock divides the month scale more densely than some might prefer. Yet it also keeps the display from feeling empty, and it emphasizes the perpetual function with clarity once you learn the layout.

A Proven Ultra-Thin Engine

Inside is Vacheron’s 1120 QP, a perpetual calendar derived from the legendary JLC 920 architecture announced in 1967. While many movements have come and gone, this one endures for a reason. It remains exceptionally slim, elegant, and dependable. Moreover, Vacheron produces it in-house today, elevating finishing while preserving the movement’s core strengths.

A skeletonized 22k gold rotor, shaped around the brand’s Maltese cross emblem, brings the Geneva Seal-certified movement to life. The finishing is crisp, and the mechanics sit with impressive compactness under the exhibition back. Power reserve is 40 hours, which is modest by modern standards. However, it is a fair trade-off for thinness. Water resistance is rated to 30 meters, and calendar correctors are set in the case flanks, as tradition dictates.

Variants, Gem-Setting, and Price Context

The watch debuts in 18k white or pink gold, with a third option featuring a diamond-set bezel and a diamond in the crown. The gem-set version is restrained in style and adds under a carat of stones around the bezel. Importantly, it feels like an enhancement rather than a separate, overtly gendered design. It is nuanced, not loud.

Pricing places the non-gem-set models at around $100,000, with the diamond version costing approximately $2,000 more. For some, the number will prompt a glance toward vintage alternatives. Yet context matters. Material costs have risen, and high-level hand-finishing remains resource-intensive. Meanwhile, within Vacheron’s own range, an ultra-thin perpetual calendar on an Overseas gold bracelet sits significantly higher, which frames this release as the classic, dressy counterpoint.

Where It Fits in the Market

Against direct competitors, the new Vacheron lands in a distinctive spot. The Patek Philippe ref. 5327R is larger at 39mm by 9.71mm and carries a higher retail price. Its caliber 240 Q shares roots in the mid-1980s, much like Vacheron’s movement lineage, and it remains a benchmark in the category. However, the Vacheron’s smaller size will appeal to purists who prefer a more traditional footprint.

Further down the price ladder sits Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar in pink gold. It is also 39mm but costs less than half the Vacheron. Its modern Caliber 868 delivers a 70-hour reserve and a more contemporary feel, though it reads less dressy due to a central seconds and a prominent year display.

Meanwhile, vintage enthusiasts may be tempted by the Vacheron 43031 from the 1980s, which shares the movement concept and the classic 36mm format. Prices often hover around a quarter of the new model’s retail, depending on condition and configuration. Additionally, Vacheron’s skeletonized 43032, while rarer and priced closer to the new watch, is a grail for many.